Sunday, August 27, 2023

The Hills are Alive...

 18 August 2023 to 21 August 2023 - Austerlitz, NY to Stowe, VT

We drove a designated Scenic Highway, Route 100, north up through Vermont to Stowe.  The scenery was spectacular and the towns we passed through were quintessential Vermont. Getting to Stowe took two days and we camped overnight near Ludlow.  We had no idea that Ludlow had been hit hard by the floods of last July, but we found out when we tried to turn onto the road that was to take us about 5 miles to our campground for the night.  A big flashing sign said, "Road Closed." Tried to contact the campground but AT&T and even Verizon had bad service in the area.  Finally, returned to the town and contacted the Ludlow police. They told us the road wasn't actually closed, closed until just after the turnoff we needed to take for our campground.  Saw lots of flood damage as we made our way - washed out road shoulders, buildings being torn down and destroyed bridges.  The campground road was rough - they are having a hard time keeping it repaired because of all the rain.  After that one night in the flood area, we continued our way north to Stowe and did not encounter any more flood related issues.  Visited Ben & Jerry's ice cream factory and the Von Trapp Family Lodge. Vermont with its Green Mountains is beautiful!


Russ getting the trailer ready to head out from Massachusetts.  We have a long drive ahead today.


The Green Mountains of Vermont are beautiful.  As we drove north, we saw lots of cross-country skiing centers and downhill skiing resorts. In the summer, the mountains are popular with bicyclists, hikers and canoeists.


Williamstown is the home of Williams College. The main road of the city goes through the middle of the campus.  Beautiful buildings and gorgeous grounds.  We passed through a number of nice towns; the area seems prosperous.


I can see why Route 100 is popular with fall leaf peepers.  These hardwood trees would be beautiful with their autumn colors.  We have seen a number that are getting a head start.


While many farms seemed to be doing well (most of them are dairy farms,) we did see some places that have been abandoned and are falling into ruin.


I have been getting Vermont Country Store catalogs for decades and have occasionally ordered from them. We really enjoyed taking a break from our scenic drive and browsing through the store.  Lots of nostalgia.  The third generation of the original family that started the store is running the business.




This potbellied stove is used in the winter to keep visitors warm. It is original to the building.  So much to look at, and maybe buy.  I did get a few things, including some Vermont cheddar cheese.


After the scare of being cut off from our campground for the night, we finally made it to the road.  Dirt again, but it wasn't too bad.  The road inside the campground was much worse.



Lots of steep descents on Route 100.  Russ is good at managing the gear shifting though, so we got through them with no problem.


Kept thinking of "On Golden Pond" as we passed lots of beautiful lakes.  


Another falling down building.  This was funny because there were a couple lawn chairs inside it.  Apparently, it is still being used.


Our campground during our stay in Stowe.  It was basically a field behind what used to be a farm. You can see one of the potholes, full of water in the foreground. We managed to setup camp between rain showers.


Loved the Ben & Jerry's ice cream factory tour.  Such unique individuals in their approach to business.  Got their start after taking an on-line course in ice-cream making.


I think Russ might take a run at eating 19 pints, but I'm pretty sure he wouldn't make it. 


Great company values and very creative way to display them. Ben & Jerry no longer own the company (they sold to Unilever,) but they required an independent Board of Directors that would make sure Ben & Jerrys could preserve their social mission and expand their quality.  For example, they work with a bakery that provides all their brownies for various ice-cream flavors.  This company provides jobs to people regardless of their background, such as prison time and homelessness. They do no background checks; the next one on the waiting list gets the job.


There is a graveyard for flavors that are no longer being made.  Clever epitaphs.




Apple trees in the orchards we passed are ready for picking.  Maybe we will get to sample fresh cider on this trip!


After the Von Trapp family escaped Austria in 1938 (Sound of Music took liberties on how they did it,) they came to Vermont and built a home on this site.  In the 50s, they created a lodge and then rebuilt it bigger and better when it was burned down in 1980.  Still run by family members, it has a big cross-country ski center and trails.



One relatively new addition to the Von Trapp Family Lodge is a brewery and bier hall.  We had lunch there and I sampled their fest bier.  Very good!






Monday, August 21, 2023

Norman Rockwell Land

15 August 2023 to 17 August 2023 - Concord MA to Austerlitz, NY

We left the Boston area on a grey and drizzly day and drove west to the other side of Massachusetts to tour the area where Norman Rockwell spent the last 25 years of his career and life. We visited Stockbridge, his hometown which figured prominently in many of his paintings. The Norman Rockwell Museum is nearby, and we had a great day seeing his paintings and touring his studio.  We stayed in a campground just across the border into New York.  I got a bit concerned when we turned off a small, paved road onto a smaller dirt road and the nav system told us we had 3 more miles to go.  As we bumped along the dirt road, all I could see on either side were forested areas with scattered homes and hills on both sides.  I had visions of having to thread our way up through trees to an uneven site which would be difficult to back into.  But we came up over a hill and the land opened out into a pretty level, clear spot where the campground was.  We ended up with a very nice campsite which was easy to get into.  Whew!  It is always a crapshoot when you pick out campgrounds on the internet - their pictures aren't always truth in advertising. 


The signs said NOT to feed the sea beast, but Russ just had to see how far he could stick his head in.  


This is a much smaller version of the giant Sea Beast that Tony Sarg created in the 1930s as a hoax on one of the Eastern seashores.   For weeks before it's appearance, rumors had spread of sightings of a giant sea beast.  Then footprints started showing up all over town overnight.  Finally, the beast appeared, and the hoax was revealed.  It was all great summer fun!


This is the prison that was just across a marsh from the hotel we stayed at near Boston.  The actual prison is behind, complete with corner towers and lots of barbed wire.  This is what, I assume, is an administrative building built in the late 1800s or early 1900s.  The internet identified it as a medium security prison for men.


We weren't able to appreciate the vistas too much because of the low cloud cover.  It was drizzling most of the time.



There has been an inn on this site since the late 1700s.  There has always been a red lion associated with the various iterations of inns.  This version was built in the late 1800s after the previous one had burnt down. Norman Rockwell ate lunch here quite frequently since his studio and home was just down the street on the other side.


One of the previous owner's wives collected teapots.  I thought I had quite a nice set, but this woman displayed teapots on almost every ledge in the living room and restaurant.  When the fire happened in the late 1800s, she managed to save all of them. 





Not sure what this wood device is - I think it is a clock.  Lots of antiques on display in the inn's public rooms.


I enjoyed my birthday lunch at the inn and had a beer specially brewed for the Red Lion Inn.



Wow!  What kid wouldn't want this rocking horse?




The buildings on Stockbridge's main street have been immortalized by Norman Rockwell in some of his paintings. He loved living in the town and used many of his neighbors as models for his paintings.


The old firehouse, now a home.


This is the land of yellow houses, they are everywhere.  I love them, especially colonial and Victorian ones.  


The museum has the world's largest collection of Rockwell's paintings and drawings.  It also houses his working papers.



Rockwell had a long relationship with the Saturday Evening Post, creating over 300 covers up through 1963. He moved to the Look magazine in the 60s and spent several years there before getting out of the magazine cover business altogether.


The last cover he did for the Saturday Evening Post was a reprint of a John F Kennedy drawing he had done a few years earlier as part of a series of prominent Americans.  This was published in memory of JFK just after his assassination.



Just one of the many wonderful paintings on display, this is in honor of the Peace Corps.  



A panoramic of Stockbridge.  We were told that, every winter, the scene is recreated, as part of a winter festival.


The museum also had a special exhibit of the art of Tony Sarg.  I didn't know much about him, but he was well known for the marionettes he created and the balloon figures.  He had a long relationship with Macy's and was instrumental in designing many of the early Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade balloons, including the turkey and Grover.


We had a sandwich in the Museum's little cafe.  You could pose for some of the iconic paintings.  I think Russ didn't care about the gossiping and flirting that was going on, he just wanted his milkshake!


The museum moved Rockwell's studio from Main Street in Stockbridge to the museum's grounds. They restored it and styled it to look just like he had it in the final years of his career.



He never just started painting, he did drawings and different studies of the scene until he was satisfied with the results, then he started painting.  When you consider the detail of his art and the large number of works he created, he must have been working 24/7.  They did say that he did not take vacations and spent all his holidays working 10 to 12 hours a day. 



He was meticulous with his brushes.  He once said that he probably spent as much time on cleaning his brushes as he did on actual painting.



He collected all sorts of props, including this real human skull.  He said you couldn't paint a person unless you understood the details of the skeleton and the musculature, like how Leonardo DaVinci approached his art.



We wondered what this was.  Came across it as we were wandering around the countryside surrounding Stockbridge.  Turns out it is the top of a building which is part of an over 100-year-old dairy farm. They pride themselves on using "at-will" milking for their Jersey cows.  The cows can line up whenever they feel the need and get milked.  And they get a snack while they are being milked. They claim their cows are happier and more productive.